New Doesn’t Equal Good: The Issue with Mass-produced Jewelry

Writer Ari Shanahan critiques the effects of mass-production on modern standards of quality jewelry.

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Shanahan contrasts fast fashion jewelry form today with longer lasting pieces from the past. (Cheska Ocampo│The Phoenix)

The importance of a staple jewelry piece in any wardrobe is immeasurable. Any drab outfit can be illuminated with the addition of the right necklace, ring or bangle. But what happens when the so-called right necklace leaves an oxidized green ring around your neck? Where should you look when a beautiful bangle snaps in half? Can anyone even find a ring that fits just right?

The perpetrator of these fashion faux pas can be drawn to just one culprit: fast fashion.

The mass production of jewelry has undercut the art of unique, long-lasting accessories by cutting corners during production, lacking size-inclusive options and turning out utterly soulless designs. Good, enduring jewelry seems to be a monument of the past.

But what makes a piece of jewelry good? Using high-quality jewelry of the past as a frame of reference, the item must be wearable, affordable and versatile. A piece shouldn’t shed on or stain the wearer. It shouldn’t be inaccessible, impractical or impossible to style. The piece should be available in different sizes to fit any consumer.

Jewelry that meets these standards may sound simple to find, but things aren’t always as they seem.

Conversely, fine and costume jewelry from the 1980s and earlier tends to hold up better over time. Vintage jewelry lasts longer and has a unique style because of the previous era’s dedication to craftsmanship and production. 

On the one hand, handcrafted jewelry is typically created by highly skilled craftsmen, contributing to the typically expensive price of handmade pieces. These works of art and skill hold up over time, but it’s unrealistic to expect everyone to spend thousands of dollars on any accessory.

On the other hand, costume jewelry mass-produced during the 20th century is still unique and wearable because the production process involved people at all stages checking the item’s quality. 

These methods of production also utilized unconventional materials to make the accessories cheap but fashionable and lasting, according to The Gemmary. Innovative designers were allowed to have fun with their creations without spending excessively, allowing for unique yet affordable products. 

Today’s jewelry can’t live up to the jewelry of the past simply because humans aren’t at the center of the production. Ring designs are often stolen from the few remaining craftsmen who work tirelessly to make a living and are lifelessly imitated with copper paint and wire, according to Vox. Whatever designs aren’t stolen from small artisans are produced by underpaid workers in poor conditions. Good jewelry doesn’t just look pretty — it’s made ethically.

Of course, none of this is to say affordability isn’t essential. But affordable jewelry needs to be good jewelry, and at the moment it’s simply disappointing. 

For many, looks and emotions go hand in hand in creating confidence. If someone feels they look good, their spirit is lifted — quality jewelry can have powerful effects on people’s confidence.

Although there’s no shortage of affordable jewelry, customers deserve better than unusable, poor-quality accessories. Artisans and designers should be at the heart of jewelry production and large corporations should seek out small businesses for collaborations.

Good jewelry doesn’t exist today because automation has replaced ring-adorned working hands, the sweaty neck that wears the chain and the pierced ears that hear people’s desires.

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