Musings on Modern Matcha

Writer Cadence Fung advocates for a high-quality, reasonably-priced matcha revival.

With its uptick in popularity and widespread consumption, matcha has evolved into a much more American drink. (Kayla Tanada | The Phoenix)
With its uptick in popularity and widespread consumption, matcha has evolved into a much more American drink. (Kayla Tanada | The Phoenix)

Smooth, subtly sweet and slightly caffeinated, matcha lattes are becoming the newest alternative to coffee-based lattes. 

Matcha has exploded in popularity due to its real and perceived health benefits, as its cool green color brings to mind health and well-being. Matcha has more caffeine than other green teas, but far less than a cup of coffee, according to Healthline. It’s also high in antioxidants and can help aid in memory and perception skills. 

Despite its current demand, matcha wasn’t always the it-girl drink. Matcha draws its origins from China’s Tang Dynasty and was introduced to Japan by a Buddhist monk in 1100. 

The ancient drink is formed by crushing green tea leaves into a powder, and it was originally served as a hot tea with no added sugar. Almost a millennium later, the Japanese tea powder — previously obscure in the U.S. — is now a permanent feature on Starbucks’ menu. 

Matcha owes its western explosion in popularity to many A-list American celebrities, who began speaking about matcha’s health properties in interviews around 2015. It wasn’t long before the drink was available in cafes across America. Even today, the celebrity link still boosts matcha’s image, as it’s enjoyed by the likes of Brad Pitt, Zendaya and Gwenyth Paltrow

But with its uptick in popularity and widespread consumption, matcha has evolved into a much more American drink.

If I were to walk into a cafe in 2025 and order a matcha, I’d almost definitely receive a milk-based drink with sweet syrup and matcha tea mixed in — a far cry from the simple, clean green tea of centuries past. American twists on the Asian drink offer a variety of different flavorings to hide the slightly bitter taste of green tea.

The price point also tends to be steep for what is mostly ice, milk and syrup. Despite its prevalence in the U.S., matcha is still viewed as a specialty item and often priced a few dollars higher than other lattes. This is due to the extremely high demand for the powder, which is mostly imported from Japan or China.

The matcha industry now makes billions annually, allowing cafes to charge extra for the green drink. While it’d be reasonable to charge higher prices if matcha lattes remained consistent and high quality, it’s disappointing there’s a wide, unappetizing range of what passes as an acceptable matcha these days. 

The quality of mass-produced matcha powder bought by many chain cafes is no longer reliable. Instead of a smooth, well-combined bright green latte, at times I’m stuck with 16 ounces of iced milk diluting dull green grit on a slow descent to the bottom. Heavy disappointment settles on my face as I sip in defeat — $8 poorer with nothing to show for it.

The sad, watered-down, pale green milk cafes often sell now can’t possibly be the beacon of health Paltrow drinks every morning. Matcha has become globalized and in its international run, has lost sight of its rich ancestor.  

It’s time to usher in the real-matcha renaissance. No more clumpy dull green drinks for $8. I want to walk out of a cafe with the epitomized example of health shining bright green in my hand — a smooth, creamy and slightly caffeinated delicacy deserving of its high status.

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