The EVArything Bagel Chronicle: R&A Sourdough

Writer Eva Maria Saric’s finds an early frontrunner in her Chicago bagel tour.

R&A Sourdough's crunchy, evenly coated crust rings in high praise. (Eva Maria Saric | The Phoenix)
R&A Sourdough's crunchy, evenly coated crust rings in high praise. (Eva Maria Saric | The Phoenix)

Welcome back to The EVArything Bagel Chronicle. After embarking on my quest in Lakeview, week two had me sail about a 30-minute train ride away from campus to another Chicagoland chain, R&A Sourdough in Ravenswood. 

R&A approaches the game with a distinct philosophy similar to Tilly’s — long-fermented sourdough, hand-shaped rings and artisanal character that sets the standards high. 

Following the rules of my road, I hesitantly skipped its speciality breakfast sandwiches and captivating display case of head-sized gourmet cookies to order my loyal control variable — an everything bagel with plain cream cheese.

Here’s how R&A Sourdough fares under the five point Tri-State microscope.

The Crust

Sourdough naturally demands a distinct exterior, and R&A delivers on the bagel promise. This crust hits with a sharp, crackling crunch backed by visible blistering — a clear indicator of proper boiling technique. It provides the essential snap on first bite without making it feel like a workout to break through the bagel skin. R&A earns 1 out of 1 point for crust.

The Seasoning

Fully redeeming last week’s spice shortcomings, R&A hits the nail on the head with its classic seasoning profile. It strikes the ideal harmony of garlic, onion, seeds and salt with no unwanted herb detours. Best of all, they coat both sides of the bagel, every bite hitting with uniform, savory depth and a hefty amount of seasoning that sends itself spilling out onto the table. For seasoning, R&A wins another 1 out of 1 point.

The Cream Cheese

Absolute perfection. R&A’s bagel schmear hits the sweet spot — rich, smooth, tangy and generously distributed from edge to edge. There was zero need to ration cream cheese or hunt for bare spots around the perimeter. R&A nailed the ratio completely, making it more than deserving of 1 out of 1 point.

The Size and Shape

While this bagel sat well in the hand, I ran into a structural bump — where was the center hole? A quick glance at the display case confirmed other bagels in the batch had proper visible holes, so maybe I drew the short straw on a fused outlier. 

Still — call me stingy — a proper bagel should look like a donut, not a sandwich roll. I docked a quarter point for the bad luck of the draw, so R&A just missed perfection with .75 out of 1 point for this category.

The Texture

This is where the sourdough method falters. While it still offers a respectable bite, the crumb density lends itself to  a heavier, drier chew rather than the ideal, springy stretch. The cross-section reveals a fairly tight, uniform crumb with air pockets packed just a tad too closely together, causing the bagel to tear cleanly like quick bread rather than pulling away with an elastic bounce. It’s by no means a dealbreaker, but a touch more moisture and open structure would elevate the chew significantly. R&A gains .5 out of 1 point for texture.

The Verdict

Tallying the scores, R&A Sourdough locks in a 4.25 out of 5 points, officially setting the high bar for this running chronicle. Between the full-coverage seasoning and a flat-out flawless schmear, this spot may come close to winning dominance over the hunt for Chicago’s best bagels.

Though my rating notes a few minor quirks in the hole and crumb texture, it’s been a few days since my visit, and I’ve genuinely been dreaming about this bagel. That double-sided seasoning, audible crunch and lush cream cheese combo has been running laps in my head, proving that maybe I am capable of serious commitment — just exclusively to carbohydrates.

If you want to test R&A Sourdough against your own standards, visit their storefront location in Ravenswood at 1938 W. Lawrence Ave., Tuesday through Friday from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m.

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